Teaching English in Southern Spain probably sounds like a dream to many. However every school year, hundreds of native English speakers move to regions like Andalucía and Murcia to work as language assistants. If you’re like most people, reading about the experiences of others can really help you decide if this life is right for you, calm your worries and answer some of your burning questions.
In this post and in a few to follow, you will find interviews with different ladies who have lived in different regions and cities. As everyone is starting to apply for teaching positions in Spain next fall, I thought a guide by regions could be helpful to those who are undecided.
The 17 Autonomous regions of Spain
The Spanish population is right around 47 million and the country is divided up into 17 autonomous regions. When applying to the ministry program, you have the option to choose three. However, they are grouped into lists and you can typically only choose one from each list. So apart from your first choice, it’s good to have a good 3-4 other choices in case a few are on the same list.
So without further ado, let’s get into these interviews all about teaching English in Southern Spain!
Table of Contents
Teaching English in Southern Spain
Andalucía
Name: Mikayla
Age: 25
Where from: United States
Town/city and region you are placed in:
Priego de Córdoba, Córdoba, Andalucía
How long have you been living there?
Since September 2019
Why did you choose the region you’re in?
I previously studied abroad in Sevilla, absolutely fell in love and knew ever since then that I wanted to come back to Andalucía.
What did you know about it before coming there?
About my pueblo I knew nothing but Andalucía I knew what life was like in the region. Lots of sun, friendly people, difficult accent, etc.
How much Spanish do you need where you live?
A fairly decent amount honestly. Both in school and pueblo life in general I think it would be quite difficult to exist here without knowing Spanish. Coming across someone that does speak English is a rarity and anything bureaucratic you do here will be done in Spanish. I’m in a primary school so the kids speak to me in Spanish the majority of the time and I always respond in English but being able to understand them makes it so much better, more fun, and easier to develop good relationships with them.
Give me a few positives and a few less positives about where you live.
Pueblo life has its ups and downs but I do think it’s so nice to go to a store or a restaurant or the copisteria and have the people there know you and recognize you. It’s certainly a charming life, the whole town is walkable and we’re in the Subbetica so there’s good hiking within walking distance. You live really well here, and people are so so friendly and ready to help you however they can.
I think the biggest negative about my town specifically, is traveling. If you have a car it’s excellent because we’re dead center in Andalucía but if you don’t have a car, it’s very difficult, even in pre-COVID times. Just getting to your destination can be an all day affair because we only have a bus and pueblo schedules, especially on weekends, are limited.
Tell me about your experience finding a place to live.
I arrived in the first half of September and there were a decent amount of places available, but a lot were 2 or 3 bedroom apartments (1 bedrooms or studios are certainly less common especially in a small town) and at the time I didn’t know of anyone else who had been placed in Priego so I was looking for somewhere to live alone. I found my apartment within 3 or 4 days of being here. It was the first apartment that I toured and I committed to it on the spot.
What is the cost of an average shared flat where you live?
About 240-300€ is the most common price range you’ll see. That’s for entire apartments, generally 2 or 3 bedrooms.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when searching for a place to live?
Fees if you go through an inmobiliaria (an agency that helps you find a place to live). If you go the other route and rent from an individual if they seem sketchy for any reason run. Stand up for yourself and don’t let yourself get scammed just because you’re a foreigner.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when coming to live where you are?
The pace of life is one of the biggest things, everything runs on Spanish time.
In your experience, is it easy to live on the stipend where you live?
Yes, it’s enough to live on if you only stay in town. If you want to travel (post COVID) or do a lot of shopping or things like that, you’d need a side gig.
What has your experience been making friends? Have you made friends with locals?
Making friends with Spaniards is quite difficult. Even pre-COVID it was hard to meet them and in general super hard to become a part of any cuadrilla (the word used in Spain for a group of friends, typically formed as children). I don’t have any Spanish friends in my town, but there are a couple of other auxiliares and that’s who I hang out with.
What has your experience at your school been like?
Absolutely amazing, both the kids and the teachers. They definitely have a lower level of English but my kids are the entire reason I decided to stay here a second year. Really the whole staff at my school has been so friendly and great to work with.
What are a few things special or typical of your region?
From my pueblo some typical good are, turrolate, truffles, olive oil of course and the San Nicasio potato chips! Also migas and flamenquín.
What advice would you give to future auxiliares? What do you wish you had known before coming?
Just come in with a really open mind. You will absolutely have to adopt the no pasa nada attitude and go with the flow when dealing with things like bureaucracy, the program, your school, etc. Also look for other ways to be involved in your town! For example, I’m taking French classes at the local language school and the other week I went on an excursion to pick mushrooms out in the campo and it was a really nice time. Things like that are a great way to meet people and to fill your free time since we only work 12 hours a week in Andalucía.
Anything else you wish to add?
Overall the program has been a great experience and you learn a lot, both about Spain and about yourself.
Name: Teri Santos
Age: 23
Where from: Philippines
Town/city and region you are placed in: Granada city, Andalucía
How long have you been living there?
5 months as of writing
Why did you choose the region you’re in?
I chose this region because of the warmer climate (at least compared to the rest of the peninsula). I also chose it because I initially wanted to do some research at the Archivo General de Indias in Seville (but that didn’t happen). I know people who are from and/or who visited this region as well, and that was a big factor since I got to ask them how life is in Andalucía.
What did you know about it before coming there?
I knew that it was warmer, and that the accent was a bit difficult to understand. However, as someone who’s interested in learning the language, this appealed to me. I also knew that it has pretty much everything, from mountains to city life to sea.
How much Spanish do you need where you live?
Here in Granada you don’t need a high knowledge of Spanish because the University of Granada is (normally) filled with a lot of Erasmus students and tourists who want to see the Alhambra. It’s a pretty international city!
Give me a few positives and a few less positives about where you live.
HELLA POSITIVE!
LESS POSITIVE…
Tell me about your experience finding a place to live.
I came to Granada mid-August because I wanted to be ahead of the Erasmus students and Spanish students who were going to look for flats. Some friends told me that I needed to have good timing with the flat visits, as some landlords/landladies would still be away for summer vacation.
Here in Granada, the flats get rented out fast precisely because of the number of students at the university. I had a bunch of flats I had seen in Idealista, and when I called/texted to inquire, a good number of them said that their flats were already rented out. It took me a week to find a flat, and in the meantime I was staying with another auxiliar (hi Lya!) to have a base.
I’m the kind of person who wants to see the flat before making a decision, and I’m lucky that my current housemate/landlady liked me and waited for me (and did not rent out the room to anyone else). I had contacted her mid-July while I was still in Lepe, and she waited for me to come to Granada and see the place. Hers was the last flat I saw, and I knew when I visited that it was where I wanted to be (especially since they have a really cute cat, but that was not initial information in Idealista).
I found out when I moved in that I was staying with a lesbian couple! Funny story – I didn’t really pay attention to the extra bedrooms in the flat (of course, I understand the privacy), but when I saw that there were only two bedrooms and one extra room for storage, I had a hunch that they were a couple. And then I asked them to confirm my hunch, and they did! They’re fantastic girls and they helped me with a lot of stuff within Granada, like where to go supermarket shopping and how to get to certain places (like my school) within the city.
What is the cost of an average shared flat where you live?
My rent right now is 300€ with all bills included. Normally the flats are about 200-400 depending heavily on the location within the city and the number of people in the flat. We’re three girls and I pay 300, but the original price was 350€. Someone commented that that was pricey, but I decided on this because I didn’t/don’t want to worry about electricity expenses, especially during winter when it gets cold.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when searching for a place to live?
I would say that you should really look at the flat itself first before deciding, because some pictures might be deceiving. Furthermore, you can have a feel of what your landlord/landlady is like, and if you have a good connection then that’s a good sign. I’ve been very lucky with my landladies the past 2 years because they’ve been so helpful: my first landlady/housemate was like my mom and my current housemates are like older sisters to me.
I also strongly recommend having a Spanish phone number already, since a lot of people may only be reachable via calling them or WhatsApp. It really helps if you know some Spanish, or if you have friends who can help you translate or communicate with the potential landlord/landlady.
Carefully look at your contract, since that will serve as protection for when things go wrong. Auxiliares who will do the empadronamiento also need contracts.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when coming to live where you are?
I think that prior to pandemic, it would have been very easy to make friends especially since it’s a university city, but if the virus is still around by next year just be prepared to be a little bit lonely. There are language exchanges hosted by the Centro de Lenguas Modernas of the UGR (but I haven’t been attending them, lol).
A lot of people have warned me about the cold here in Granada – it is indeed colder than most Andalucían provinces, and as I write this (27 December 2020), we’re going to see a high of 8ºC and a low of -1ºC this week. It normally doesn’t rain though, which is good.
Prepare for a Hunger Games kind of flat hunt because a lot of university students are also hunting! Come in a bit earlier (two weeks before the start of the program) so you can see the flats and move in.
In your experience, is it easy to live on the stipend where you live?
It’s possible to live on the 700€ stipend but I don’t think it’s enough if you really want to travel and eat out often. My lifestyle is very simple and I haven’t been out that much due to the pandemic, but it’s best to supplement your work in the school with private classes or academy work. In my case, I’m a part-time lecturer for a university in the Philippines (I teach online) so I at least have some money for groceries, for example.
What has your experience been making friends? Have you made friends with locals?
During the pandemic, do not expect a nightlife and expect that it will be a bit more challenging to make friends. However, there are some intercambios (at least, I joined one hosted by the Centro de Lenguas Modernas of the University of Granada) that can help.
I had already made a Reddit friend from 2018 (one of the reasons I chose Granada, actually), and he introduced me to some of his other friends! We hung out more often during the summer. One teacher actually introduced me to a Filipino family she knew from her previous school, which was awesome!
My definition of friends actually changed when I got here to Spain. Normally when one says friends, it’s people your age. However, I realized that here, my friends are also my colleagues, housemates, and to an extent my students (high school). Friendship for me has been made more enriching because I have friends of different ages.
What has your experience at your school been like?
I started a bit late (mid-October) since they had to sort out some things regarding the finger-prick Covid test, which is a requirement for all auxiliares this year. Most of my colleagues know how to work with an auxiliar, since a good number of them are not new teachers and have had experiences in the past. My coordinator is new to the school and to the program so she wasn’t of much help, but because of my previous experience with an excellent coordinator, I knew how to get around on my own in terms of who to talk to about salary, the Extranjería appointment, etc.
Over the summer I was asked for my CV, which helped the coordinator determine which classes I could be of most help in. Given my humanities background, I’m with a lot of history and geography classes (which I love)! It took a while for my schedule to be finalized since I’m the only auxiliar in the high school and I’m in demand. You can see my schedule, which changes weekly because of Covid guidelines.
What are a few things special or typical of your region?
Based on the activities that I have been doing with my students, special things in Andalucía are flamenco, sevillana, piononos, maritoñis, toast with butter and sugar, and tropical fruits (because the tropical coast is here). Andalucía is known for being the source of exports for all of Europe because of the agricultural products… The food here is hella fresh! I learned that the hard way because there was a time I bought some strawberries and they got destroyed after maybe 2 weeks because they were hella fresh.
Andalucía’s also known for having a lot of Arabic/Islamic/Moorish influence (sorry, I don’t know the word!) seen particularly in architecture and urban planning. It’s so rich, and I honestly want to know more.
What advice would you give to future auxiliares? What do you wish you had known before coming?
If you want to share links to any social media or blogs, feel free to do so here!
Here’s a link to my observations as an auxiliar: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-7yMQrNxFSelMW7jfJaSA-1E8AMNDw49I6mNloXApR0/edit?usp=sharingI made a guide for auxiliares, mainly focused on Filipinos for the first part of it but helpful for others especially for TIE, house hunting, getting a SIM card, etc. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1c7N-rAGq9swu8nVMuQD4i8VZ4nrC78-jz-rIc_iZ5s0/edit#heading=h.2kem1t6g6pgj
Málaga
Name: Ellen Buchanan
Age: 27
Where from: Northern Kentucky, United States
How long have you been living in Málaga?
One year and four months. This is my second year in Málaga as an aux.
Why did you choose the region you’re in?
Before living in Málaga I was in La Rioja for two years. One of the teachers I worked closely with was, to put it lightly, obsessed with Málaga. I had never even heard of it before meeting her, but the way she raved about this city really intrigued me. I did a little bit of research and soon I found myself raving about it right along with her. The weather, the beach, and the proximity to other major Spanish cities is really what caught my eye and in the end is what made me decide to live in Málaga.
What did you know about it before coming there?
Honestly not too much. I knew where it was on a map, and had heard about the mysterious malagueño delicacy called espeto, but other than its tropical climate and geographical location, I was kind of in the dark.
How much Spanish do you need where you live?
Málaga is a city rich in tourists. I like to say it’s the Florida of Europe- a vacation hotspot and the perfect place to retire. Because of this, the amount of people who speak English is a lot higher than in less touristy cities. If you are living in Málaga city, you can definitely get by without having the best grasp of Spanish. Most servers at restaurants and bars have some knowledge of English, but when dealing with the TIE renewal/application process and banking, I would definitely advise to have at least a basic level of Spanish.
Give me a few positives and a few less positives about where you live.
In my opinion, Málaga has got to be one of the best cities to live in in Spain. It has beaches, mountains, a very mild winter, extremely friendly people, a large airport, and great seafood. The city has a huge variety of ethnic foods and a lot of vegetarian/vegan options. An obstacle you might face would be the malagueño accent (and the andalusian accent in general). It is a little more difficult to understand than the Spanish in other comunidades, but, like most things, after a little while you get used to it. To be honest, I don’t have many negative things to say about Málaga. To sum up my thoughts: ¡Es la leche!
Tell me about your experience finding a place to live.
I had a very easy time finding housing. My first year in Málaga I used idealista and found an apartment on my first day in the city. This second year I moved to a different apartment that I found on the app, badi. I have gotten very lucky and have had outstanding landlords and living situations both years here.
What is the cost of an average shared flat where you live?
I live with my fiance in a shared flat and we pay 500. In my experience a room in a shared apartment in or near the city center can be anywhere from 300 to 600 euros.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when searching for a place to live?
When I was looking for an apartment my first year I felt a lot of pressure to find somewhere quickly because I knew Málaga was a big city. After turning down a couple flats with the same landlord, he told me I “had better find a place fast or else all of the apartments will be snatched out from under me.” Don’t let people pressure you into signing a contract or choosing a flat you don’t feel comfortable in. Málaga is a bigger city, sure, but there are enough pisos out there that you can take your time in finding the one that is best for you.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when coming to live where you are?
The city buses in Málaga are not the best. They tend to take a very long time and have a huge number of stops. I usually walk when I want to go somewhere, but whenever I take the bus I make sure to budget extra time.
In your experience, is it easy to live on the stipend where you live?
Depending on where you live in relation to the center, yes and no. I chose to live quite close to the city center, so my rent is a little higher than what I was used to in La Rioja. I have 6 hours of private lessons a week and with that plus our auxiliar salary, I have more than enough to live on. However, if you choose to live outside of the city or in a neighboring pueblo, the aux stipend would be plenty to live on.
What has your experience been making friends? Have you made friends with locals?
Personally I have had a very positive experience making friends here. I have quite a few malagueño friends and found it much easier to make local friends here than in the north. This could be credited to the openness of people here in Málaga, but maybe more so to my improved Spanish. There are also many auxiliares in Málaga so making fellow teacher friends is easy to do.
What has your experience at your school been like?
I have had an incredible experience at both of my schools in Málaga. The teachers have been unbelievably inviting and friendly and I became good friends with quite a few of them. I have taught in bilingual schools both this year and last. I am mainly in science, social studies, and art classes. I was placed in primary schools and in general, the students’ English level is low. The teachers, on the other hand, have blown me away with their English. I was very impressed with the teachers’ levels. Of course, the English of both teachers and students changes from school to school.
What are a few things special or typical of your region?
As I briefly mentioned before, Málaga has a special dish called espeto. The beaches in all of Andalucía are lined with beach bars (chiringuitos) and in Málaga it is here where you will find the highly sought after espeto- a stick of freshly roasted sardines, lightly salted and drizzled with lemon juice. The sardines are carefully placed in a line and cooked over an open fire. They really create the most special atmosphere here in Málaga. The smell of campfire wafts through the palm trees lining the beaches and people can be seen gathered day in and day out, surrounded by espetos and cañas. Who would’ve thought that fish could make something so magical?
What advice would you give to future auxiliares? What do you wish you had known before coming?
Keep an open mind! For me, living in Spain has been the most incredible experience, but it hasn’t been all sunshine and rainbows. Integrating into a new culture and country can be challenging and even frustrating at times, but in the end the good outweighs the bad (at least in my experience). Be patient with the changes and allow yourself to accommodate to the new lifestyle.
Anything else you wish to add?
If you want to share links to any social media or blogs, feel free to do so here!
I sell digital downloads of my paintings of cities in Spain and Europe here: https://onlyeverest.weebly.com/
My blog: https://littleelleninabigworld.weebly.com/
Name: Maricela Pacheco
Age: 35
Where from: Houston, Texas
Town/city and region you are placed in: Murcia, Spain
How long have you been living there?
I have been here since September 2017.
Why did you choose the region you’re in? I
did not. The program placed me here. I had never heard of Murcia before getting here, and it was not one of my three choices, but I am glad I ended up here. I love Murcia and don’t want to leave!
What did you know about it before coming there?
I found out about this program a few years before taking the plunge, so I came prepared. I had researched the program, requirements, and responsibilities. I reached out to an aux in Murcia, and she gave me excellent guidance that I followed through and made everything easy for me once I got here and started doing all the required paperwork.
How much Spanish do you need where you live?
I’m fluent in Spanish 🙂 but if you’re not, this is the perfect time to practice what you know!The weather. Murcia has over 300 sunny days with mild winters.
Give me a few positives and a few less positives about where you live.
Tell me about your experience finding a place to live.
Before I arrived, I had already decided to live close to my school because I wanted to experience the “pueblo life” and did not want to do the commute. I walked a lot and called many numbers, and after a month and a half, I secured a flat! I decided to live in the city (Murcia) for my second, third, and fourth-year; I did not want to go through my first-year experience of finding a flat again! I got lucky finding a room in the city because I was friends with a Spanish girl, and she and her flatmates were looking for a fourth roommate. I moved to another flat my third year, and I am still in this flat. So finding a flat can be a pain, or you can get lucky!
What is the cost of an average shared flat where you live?
It varies between 150 to 300 euros, depending on the location/neighborhood. For example:
1st year: 250 + utilities (small town and one-bedroom flat)
2nd year: 150 + utilities ( four-bedroom flat)
3rd year: 183 + utilities (three-bedroom flat)
4th year: 275 + utilities (same flat as 3rd year, but only have one roommate)
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when searching for a place to live?
NEVER wire money to place a hold on a flat without seeing it first. I have known of auxes that have done this and lost money. Before coming to Spain, make sure to join your Facebook regional group and ask if anyone is looking for a roommate.
What are some things future auxes should be aware of when coming to live where you are?
Do not come with any expectations. Murcia is a university city with friendly people and great food. It has a vast Erasmus program, so you will see many students and hear English and other languages, so embrace it. It’s a party city, so if you enjoy going out, this is it 🙂
In your experience, is it easy to live on the stipend where you live?
Yes, Murcia is affordable. Also, everyone has private classes or work online to offset any costs while waiting to get paid.
What has your experience been making friends? Have you made friends with locals?
Since 2017, my experience in making friends in Spain has been great. Thanks to this program, I have met amazing auxiliares that I call friends and some locals too. I am not going to say it is easy making friends with the Murcianos because they have established friendships since they were children, and that’s who they are around all the time, but this should not discourage you. I have my Spanish friends who I hang out with when we can; just put yourself out there and see how you click.
What has your experience at your school been like?
GREAT! I am not exaggerating, but I got lucky with all of my schools in Spain (so far). My coordinators and teachers have been welcoming and flexible with my work schedule.
What are a few things special or typical of your region?
Fiestas
-Bando de la Huerta (Murcia)
-Entierro de la Sardina (Murcia)
-Semana Santa (Murcia, Lorca, Cartagena)
-Caballos del Vino (Caravaca de la Cruz)
-Pay a visit to Caravaca de la Cruz (the Fifth Holy City)
-Fiestas de Primavera (Murcia)
-WARM UP music concerts (Murcia)
-Festival de Jazz (San Javier, I lived here my first year)
-Carthagineses y Romanos (Cartagena)
-Carnaval de Aguilas (Aguilas)
-Wine Festival/Tours (Jumilla)
-La Purísima de Yecla (Yecla)
Food
-Paparajote (lemon leaf battered in deliciousness)
-Zarangollo (scrambled eggs, onions, zucchini)
-Michirones
-Pastel de carne murciano
-Caldero del Mar Menor
Murcia has good wine that comes from Jumilla, Yecla, and Bullas.
What advice would you give to future auxiliares? What do you wish you had known before coming?
As I mentioned before, I had researched the program years before coming here, but please do your research. I highly advise you to have savings just for Spain; this will help you cover any unforeseeable expenses while waiting to get paid by the program. Also, I see auxes comparing their country to Spain. Don’t! Please, leave your (insert country) mentality; this is Spain! In Spain, they speak Spanish, so do not complain about not being understood or their lack of English.
Anything else you wish to add?
Be PATIENT! The Spanish system moves on their time, slow or when they want to, especially when you’re trying to do all your visa paperwork requirements. Reach out to other auxes and ask for guidance. Make the best of your experience in Spain; it truly is a beautiful country!
The program itself is notorious for depositing/paying us late the first month in some regions. That is why I keep mentioning to bring some extra savings/be financially ready when you get here. After the first month’s deposit, we get our payment regularly.
If you want to share links to any social media or blogs, feel free to do so here!