Pache.co Information Technologies

At first glance, Alluma may seem like an outlier on the Rue St. Maur stretch of the 11th arrondissement, known most for its natural wine bars and street food joints. But this elegant neo-bistro from the Israeli chef Lirin Tal and his wife Noa has deservedly found its crowd with a vibrant ode to Levantine flavours – on and off the plate. With the help of Name Architecture, the couple brightened up an 860-square-foot former Moroccan restaurant, transforming it with marble tabletops, velvet green banquettes, and its most defining feature, an alabaster white wooden moucharabieh wall that spans the dining room. The most colourful elements come from Tal’s seasonal five-course tasting menu, best experienced at dinner, which might include: sea bream crudo with figs and crushed pistachios, dressed with buttermilk and fig leaf oil; charcoaled celeriac served with black lentils and labneh; and grapefruit-Arak sorbet topped with sumac meringue. Don’t skip out on the wine pairing that showcases an exquisite, mostly organic selection from France, Spain, Italy, and Armenia. Lindsey Tramuta

The Paris region’s most hotly-anticipated opening of the last year can actually be found 25 miles south of the capital in the small village of Saint-Vrain. It’s where the Australian chefs James Henry and Shaun Kelly, known for their influence in the Parisian bistronomy movement, transformed the former stables of a 19th-century private estate into a working farm, restaurant, and guesthouse driven by the principles of regenerative agriculture. More than one hundred varieties of heirloom fruits, vegetables, and herbs make their way into Henry’s vibrant cooking after being meticulously nurtured by Kelly, who has taken on the role of lead farmer. It’s all served on antiqued dishware in a sprawling dining room with exposed beams and floor-to-ceiling windows that keep the garden within close view. The experience doesn’t begin or end on the plate, however: guests are strongly encouraged to take their apéritif or digestive stroll through the farm. LT

Jun’s – Dubai

In some ways, chef Kelvin Cheung embodies the Dubai dream: He touched down in the city after stints at celebrated restaurants across Canada, the U.S., Belgium, and India, bringing with him the global sensibility with which the UAE has become synonymous. His menu at Jun’s reflects his cosmopolitan outlook, packing flavours he’s picked up along the way into sophisticated spins on comfort fare: tempura za’atar chaat with tamarind, yoghurt, and avocado; red-hot chicken karaage with waffles; lobster pani puri with achaar; lamb koobideh tsukune; and rainbow heirloom carrots with smoked labneh and soy honey butter. But the real star here may well be Cheung himself, a natural raconteur who makes an effort to come by each table to share the spellbinding stories behind each dish. When the weather is nice, grab a seat on the patio in the shadow of the sparkling spire of the Burj Khalifa—it doesn’t get more Dubai than that. Sarah Khan

La Semilla – Atlanta

This little tropical enclave in Atlanta’s Reynoldstown neighbourhood serves up some of the tastiest plant-based dishes in the city. Married duo Sophia Marchese and chef Reid Trapani filled the space with whimsical personal touches, such as vintage decor and hand-painted banana leaves on the bar’s soffit. Marchese oversees the beverage program with drinks befitting the locale, like the agricole fashioned with rum, mole bitters and Angostura. Trapani’s dishes pay homage to Marchese’s Cuban heritage and his travels to Latin America. There’s a vegan Cubano with house-made seitan and jackfruit lechón, but the star of the menu may be the bistec de palomilla made with local lion’s-mane mushrooms. Lia Picard

Mak-‘amham/Cafe Ohlone – Berkeley, California

The latest iteration of Cafe Ohlone, a restaurant dedicated to Indigenous foods from Vincent Medina (East Bay Chochenyo) and Louis Trevino (Carmel Valley Rumsen), ‘ottoy serves diners in a space at the Hearst Museum at the University of California, Berkeley, a building formerly named after the anthropologist who falsely declared the Ohlone tribe extinct. In Chochenyo, the language of the Ohlone people, ‘oṭṭoy means to heal, and every aspect of the restaurant is dedicated to that goal, from shell mounds representative of the tribal gravesites raided by UC researchers to a menu that marries traditional Ohlone dishes like tan oak acorn bisque or clams and mussels with contemporary-feeling offerings like a chia and hazelnut pudding. “This is part of our living culture,” Medina says of the restaurant’s mix of celebration and acknowledgement, of old and new. “We are fully embracing all our lived experiences.” Eve Batey

Koji Club – Boston

Nothing can stop a Bostonian with a plan. When lockdown first foiled Alyssa Mikiko DiPasquale’s endeavour to open the greatest sake bar the city had ever seen, she transitioned her business model to a subscription service paired with Zoom education sessions – which sold out consistently. And when supply chain woes across the hemisphere thwarted her ability to import Japan’s most interesting spirits, she used her distinguished reputation as longtime manager and marketer of iconic omakase spot O Ya to get the right people on the phone and the right sakes into her hands. Nevertheless, she persisted, opening an intimate 250-square-foot bar space last year that is as cosy and authentic as anything you would find in Japan. Koji Club’s bartenders offer an encyclopedic knowledge of sake’s multiverse, and the menu breaks down the spirit’s diversity from mild to wild, using cheeky descriptions such as, “Like walking through a temple in Kyoto wearing Le Labo’s Santal 33.” By the end of each night, you’re brushing elbows with strangers, making friends, and, whether you’re already a sake aficionado or just looking for something to do for date night, walking away with something you didn’t know before you went. “This city lost half of its Japanese restaurants during the pandemic,” said DiPasquale recently. “If I can just help people learn about and appreciate sake, that will be a job well done.” Todd Plummer

Her Place Supper Club – Philadelphia

Back when she was a student at the University of Pennsylvania, Amanda Shulman threw elaborate dinner parties for classmates. Eight years later and with stints at Vetri Cucina and Momofuku Ko under her belt, the chef channels a similar intimate, electric vibe at Her Place, a supper club serving a family-style tasting menu in Center City, Philadelphia. Inside the snug dining room, abuzz with strangers socializing to a soundtrack of 80s hits, Shulman pops in from the open kitchen to describe dishes like chicken liver and apple butter-spiked gougers, lemony hand-rolled pasta, and paper-thin slices of roast beef served with a tangle of crispy fries. At the end of the meal, she floats through the dining room, like any good host, sending off her guests with a tray of warm chocolate chip cookies. Regan Stephens

Mi Compa Chava – Mexico City

Seafood is a hangover cure in Mexico, and almost everyone eating here is intent on either fixing last night’s damage or getting a head start on creating today’s. On the sidewalk, crowds of locals and tourists alike line up for avid fisherman Salvador Orozco’s creative takes on Sinaloa and Baja seafood. The artful aguachile (raw shrimp in spicy sauce) rightfully lands on almost every table, as do selections from the cold bar – which come with house-made hot sauces. Anything from the raw half of the menu is a sure bet, though cooked dishes like the fish birria quesadilla can help fill out a meal. The airy space, bright-yellow metal tables, and open kitchen running the length of the room support chef Salvador Orozco’s vision of a Mexican coastal town seafood cart, while a plant-laden parklet holds outdoor tables. On the sidewalk, crowds of locals and tourists alike line up for the avid fisherman’s creative takes on Sinaloa and Baja seafood. Naomi Tomky

Foresta – Quito

The biophilic interiors of famed Ecuadoran chef Rodrigo Pacheco’s conservation-focussed restaurant give meals there the feeling of a dinner party in a chic greenhouse. Chefs prepare grilled prawns with spicy watermelon on massive volcanic-rock cooktops, and use ingredients like figs sourced from local Indigenous communities, making the experience even sweeter. Katherine Gallardo

Lasai – Rio de Janiero

Despite being just a few metres from its original address in the Botafogo neighbourhood, the 2.0 version of Lasai bares little resemblance to its former concept. Down from 45 seats, chef Rafa Costa e Silva’s awarded restaurant now serves only ten diners per service, offering a much more unique experience. A modern, intimate room with no windows, a marble L-shaped counter, and dramatic lighting has replaced the airy old colonial townhouse. The only similarity is Costa e Silva’s vegetable-oriented dishes, cooked chiefly with ingredients he grows on his two nearby farms. The change has helped him perfect the service (led by his wife Malena Cardiel) and “thicken the broth” of his minimalist cuisine, relying on more exclusive ingredients, such as sea urchin and ikura. Lasai has consolidated as a top-notch destination in the Marvellous City. Rafael Tonon

Kōnā Corner – Buenos Aires

Kōnā Corner, a 76-seat restaurant in Buenos Aires, is the ultimate expression of acclaimed Argentinian chef Narda Lepes’ lifelong passion for Japanese cuisine and culture. Located in the leafy Belgrano neighbourhood, the restaurant blends traditional Japanese dishes with a modern twist. Executive Chef Pablo Chinen and Head Chef Fernando Kanashiro lead the open kitchen in creating an array of dishes that are faithful to Japanese roots and techniques, while presented in a contemporary style. Among the standouts are agedashi tofu, Hanetsuki gyoza, tonkatsu, miso beurre blanc trou, and fukusai – vegetables prepared five ways: raw, cooked, pickled, and nukazuke. Kōnā Corner’s minimalist design, hidden lighting, and custom-made dinnerware have all been meticulously considered, creating an elegant and inviting ambience. The sleek upstairs bar, masterminded by renowned bartender Inés de los Santos, is a destination in itself, especially when the karaoke room opens, making it the perfect spot for a memorable sake-induced night out. Allie Lazar

Can a dish inspired by a Spanish recipe using Japanese ingredients still be considered Thai? For chef Prin Polsuk, one of Bangkok’s most acclaimed Thai chefs, it most certainly can. At his latest restaurant, a pared-back, pint-size dining room at the base of Bangkok’s landmark King Power Mahanakhon tower, he draws inspiration from King Chulalongkorn’s 1897 journey around Europe and the foreign ingredients and cooking techniques he subsequently added to the royal cookbooks. With the help of Spanish chef Pepe Dasí Jiménez, Polsuk creates seasonal 12-course menus that blur culinary borders. Expect plates such as southern Thai pork belly with coffee kombucha, jellied nam pla waan fish sauce with strawberry and jamón-like salted tuna with honey-pickled melon. Chris Schalkx

Swallow Tainan – Taiwan

There are numerous third-wave coffee shops in southern Taiwan‘s laid-back Tainan, but this new cafe-cum-bar in a century-old shophouse along one of the city’s oldest alleys specialises in morning kick-starts of a different kind. Opened by Mei Chiu and Dan Zhang, a mixologist couple who returned to their native Taiwan after a four-year stint at some of Singapore’s top bars, Swallow starts serving cocktails as early as nine in the morning. Days start off with easy-sipping drinks such as black sesame espresso martinis and Taiwanese mountain tea with gin and riesling wine and turn more experimental – think whisky with buckwheat tea or sake vermouth with kombu distillate – after dark. Drop by even if you don’t intend on day drinking: the coffee menu is equally thoughtful and features slow drips, espressos and pour-overs with beans from Rufous Roasters in Taipei. Chris Schalkx

The Jade Room + Garden Terrace – Tokyo

The words “custard” and “bread” sit comfortably alongside “miso” and “yuzu” on the menu at Jade Room + Garden Terrace – offering a clue about the British-meets-Japanese innovations that lie behind the cuisine at the new signature restaurant at The Tokyo EDITION, Toranomon. The first Japan venture for London chef Tom Aikens, the restaurant hovers on the cloud-brushing 31st floor of the Kengo Kuma-designed hipster-magnet hotel. The space is as sleek and shiny as the creative clientele: picture walnut panelling tempered by a spectrum of greens (from the jade velvet seats and John Jackson paintings to a cornucopia of plants). The restaurant – which finally opened in October 2022, two years after the hotel debuted, following pandemic-related delays – flows onto a relaxed Garden Terrace (a rare rooftop luxury in Tokyo), with distractingly iconic Tokyo views. Those able to tear their eyes away from the urban cityscape are rewarded with the nature-inspired layers of Aikens cuisine, which playfully mixes influences from Japan and Britain. An opening highlight? Piglet belly, squid, pineapple and vanilla – a deliciously modern riff on old-school British classic gammon and pineapple. Danielle Demetriou